OCTA

Photo from the Governor General’s website, at www.gg.ca/gallery.

“It was like a surprise birthday party,” says Cookstown Greens’ David Cohlmeyer of his award in the category of Stewardship and Sustainability at the inaugural Governor General’s Award in Celebration of the Nation’s Table, handed out on June 23.

Cohlmeyer says he only found out a few weeks ago that he was to receive the award, along with Chefs Michael Stadtlander and Jamie Kennedy and 11 other recipients from across Canada. He was so shocked to see so many of (who he calls) his “foodie” colleagues Rideau Hall that he asked them if they had been paid to come. But, really, who would turn down dinner at the governor general’s house?

The award was borne out of an idea his Excellency Jean-Daniel Lafond (husband of Governor General Michaëlle Jean) had while attending a Cuvee event in Niagara in 2006. He wanted to recognize and celebrate outstanding efforts in improving the quality, variety and sustainability of all elements and ingredients of our nation’s table. In his speech at the gala, he said, “What we eat and what we drink and how it gets to the table is a crucial part of our culture. It is what joins us together. It is what makes us who we are. It is what sustains us as a people.” Jamie Kennedy agrees. “It’s a part of our cultural fabric that has not been recognized,” he says.

Kennedy, like Cohlmeyer, is also humbled by the accolade. He uses the words “happy,” “astonished,” and “delighted,” when describing his reaction to his win in the category of Leadership. He also adds that he is honoured to share it with his great friend and colleague Michael Stadtlander. “The Governor General carries a lot of weight,” he says. “To have the nation’s table added [as an award] is a huge accomplishment.” He says that it is indicative of how Canada is moving forward in the way we think about food and agriculture and recognizing the importance of field-to-table.

Arlene Stein, Slow Food Toronto convivium co-leader, Program Director at Evergreen Brickworks and a guest at the awards, says, “The award has set a precedent and gives credibility to alternative models of food production.” She believes it’s important for the Governor General to set this example, to make us think about how we are going to change how we will produce food in the future and how we want to identify ourselves.

Food writer James Chatto was one of a 12-person advisory committee who chose the recipients from across the country. In his blog, he writes, “This is not just another way of patting top chefs and food writers on the back. It goes much deeper than that, embracing as broad a slice of Canada as possible and considering gastronomy in its broadest possible sense.” He refers to the award as “gastronomical ‘G-Gs,’ recognizing gastronomy as an art form.” Cohlmeyer says he’s always believed cooking to be an art. He wrote a cover story about it in Toronto Life a few years back.

The 400 or so guests at the lavish reception got to fully experience that art. Rideau Hall Executive Chef Louis Charest, along with Chef Paul Finkelstein and his team of high school students from Stratford’s Screaming Avocado Café created a lavish spread using ingredients from Canada’s finest artisanal producers.

The Governor General’s website has a list of the other winners from across Canada.